Desert Tortoise!

25-26 May 2024
Covington Flats to California Riding and Hiking Trail to cross-country to Samuelson Rock to West Entrance to Bigfoot Trail to California Riding and Hiking Trail to Covington Flats
(28 miles, +4,000/-4,000 feet).

I had such a nice time with my parents in Joshua Tree that I decided to go back!

This time on a one night backpack with Half Cookie.

Whee!

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Here we go!

We started at Covington Flats, which is quite deep in the park down a dirt road. We were the only ones parked at the trailhead. We then started south on the California Riding and Hiking Trail.

The flowers were amazing at this elevation!

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Wallace’s woollydaisy
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Golden linanthus
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Fringed onion
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Apricot mallow
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Slender-lobed four o’clock
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California evening primrose
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Snakeleaf mariposa
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Small wirelettuce
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Plains pricklypear
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Desert woollystar
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Desert calico
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Beavertail cactus
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Cruising the CRHT
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Firecracker penstemon
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Woolly desert marigold
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Desert horned lizard

We turned north to follow a wash and then a use trail headed towards Quail Mountain.

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Less cruisy
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Pumice alpinegold
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Giant woollystar

The use trail climbed out of a wash and headed steeply up a ridge.

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Huff puff

Soon we made the ridge and had a clear view of Quail Mountain.

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There it is, on the left!

On seeing the scenery, we changed our plan to summit Quail and decided to head down towards Samuelson’s Rock instead. I’m not sure I would do it this way again. It added about 2 miles of cross country to our route, and the terrain was complex. It took a lot more time than I expected.

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Finding our way
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Parry’s nolina
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Lots of grassy slopes
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This is beautiful!

I found my favorite flower in the whole world!

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Panamint liveforever
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Descending the granite

The heat really got to Half Cookie, so we took a long break under a juniper and I carried her pack for a little while.

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Slowly picking our way through
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Desert bluebell
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Our final descent before the wash
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Made it to the wash!
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Literally not out of the woods yet…
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That’s better!

We found shade and took a nice long break to pick all the prickly stickers and grasses out of our socks and shoes.

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Giving our feet a break!
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Davidson’s buckwheat
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A tiny spider (genus pellenes), no bigger than the grains of sand!
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Desert willow

After the break Half Cookie was feeling better. We followed the wash northwest of Quail Mountain down to where it intersected with Quail Wash. We then headed upslope and crossed over to Samuelson Rock.

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Whew!
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Desert Christmas Tree
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Mojave hole-in-the-sand plant

Samuelson’s Rock is weird. A homesteader lived here long ago, and he carved misspelled wisdom for the ages.

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Um….
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Making our way around The Rock
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Silver Cholla
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\rant

We picked up the Bigfoot Trail here, which was quite a relief after our cross country adventure.

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Woolly bluestar
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The Bigfoot Trail
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Another Panamint Liveforever!

About a mile and a half from the West Entrance we set up our tent and then headed to the ranger station to fill our water bottles.

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Off to get water

It was a little jarring to hit the road. I thought it would be nice to walk the shoulder, but it’s very narrow and it was full of Memorial Day Weekend traffic. We ended up travelling cross country on a parallel route.

After we got water we found a broad wash to walk back on. It was nice but the sun was setting and we were both VERY tired!

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Last bit of sun on Spiny Senna
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Good night!

We had a warm night in the tent (I forgot to take a picture!) and the next morning we got an early start.

The first order of business was to beautify the neighborhood.

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I wish they would ban these
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Desert cottontail

The Bigfoot Trail crossed over Quail Wash, but we decided to hike the wash instead.

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Quail Wash

Eventually we picked up the Bigfoot Trail again.

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Back on track!
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This is lovely!

We had a thousand foot climb early in the morning, and as we turned a switchback I heard Half Cookie exclaim. I thought it was a rattlesnake, but it was even better.

A desert tortoise!

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Wow!

I have probably hiked 1,000 miles in the desert and this is the first time I have ever seen one of these guys.

The tortoise noticed us observing it and slowly turned off trail, swimming into the dry grass along its edge.

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Sorry, buddy, we’ll leave now

That encounter made the whole trip for me. So awesome!

We continued climbing the Bigfoot Trail across complex terrain, playing a guessing game: how many more ridges would we climb before we came to the top?

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The Bigfoot Trail
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One more ridge

At Convington Flat road we decided to slackpack, dropping everything but food, water, and first aid into one pack and leaving it there to pick up in the car on the way out. It made the last 7 miles a lot nicer!

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Covington Road rest area
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Back on the trail
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This is wonderful!
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Very nice Joshua trees here
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Almost done with the Bigfoot Trail

I wasn’t sure what we would find when we turned off the Bigfoot Trail and up the last wash, but it turns out that route is the California Riding and Hiking Trail. It was wide, sandy, easy walking all the way up. We passed the first other hikers we have seen the whole trip.

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Back on the CRHT

And when we were back at Covington Road, we found that the CRHT continued on a lovely track far enough away from the road that it was out of sight.

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So nice!
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Desert mariposa lily

When we got back to the car we were very tired.

So tired, that we reminded each other: don’t forget to pick up our things we left on the side of the road!

But it was nice to be back in the comfort of a modern car again, and on our way home.

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